Kona Noir & the SL34 Coffee Varieties

Kona SL34, is a unique blend of African genetics and Hawaiian terroir. Its history and distinct characteristics make Kona-grown SL34 a notable variety that has earned high rankings by Coffee Review as featured in Big Island Coffee Roaster’s release, Kona Noir.

What is SL34 Coffee?

SL34 coffee originated in Kenya in the 1930s. It was developed by Scott Agricultural Laboratories under contract with the Kenyan government. The primary goal was to breed a resilient coffee variety with high yield and excellent cup quality. From this initiative emerged SL34 and its sibling SL28. SL34 became one of Kenya’s most commonly grown coffee varieties due to its complex flavor profile, adaptability, and great cupping quality. 

Sorting through coffee cherries

The History of SL34 Coffee

In the 1930s, Kenya's coffee industry was at a crossroads. The country needed a solution to boost its coffee production and ensure the beans were of the highest quality. To tackle this challenge, the Kenyan government turned to Scott Agricultural Laboratories, a respected research institution.

Scott Labs took on the mission with determination. Their goal was clear: develop coffee plants that could thrive in Kenya's diverse climates, resist diseases, and yield high-quality beans. The scientists at Scott Labs began an extensive breeding program, meticulously crossbreeding different coffee varieties to find the perfect match.

Their hard work came to fruition with developing two new coffee varieties: SL28 and SL34. SL34, in particular, stood out for its robustness and exceptional flavor profile. It could withstand the varied Kenyan climate, from the highlands to the lowlands, and still produce beans that delighted the palate with complex, vibrant notes.

The introduction of SL34 influenced Kenyan coffee farming, eventually spreading to territories outside of Kenya because of its popularity. This specific variety’s ability to thrive at a wide elevation range meant that Kenyan coffee could now consistently achieve high yields and superior quality, securing its place on the world stage.

Today, SL34 is celebrated not just for Scott Lab’s innovation but also for the unique flavors it brings to the cup. It's a testament to the vision and dedication of those early pioneers at Scott Labs, who helped shape the future of coffee in Kenya and beyond.

Kona-Grown SL34: A Rare and Unique Blend of Terroir and Genetics

Coffee hawaiian terroir

Kona-grown SL34 represents a remarkable expression of this variety in the unique conditions of Hawaii. By combining African genetics with Hawaiian terroir and innovative farmer processing techniques, such as yeast fermentation, Kona SL34 offers a distinct flavor profile. The unique minerals in Hawai’i’s rich volcanic soil influence the flavor profile of SL34; this variety is well known for its wine, tomato, black currant, and berry tasting notes. 

Today we’re lucky to enjoy varieties like SL34 in Hawai’i, but they have not always been available to our Hawai’i-based farmers. Our limited access to SL34 is due to a few main factors:

  1. State import and quarantine laws: Hawaii has strict regulations to protect its delicate ecosystem, making it challenging to introduce new coffee varieties. The Hawaii Department of Agriculture requires that new coffee seedlings undergo a quarantine period of two years to ensure they are free of pests and diseases. 
  2. Resistance from local associations: There has been historical resistance among Kona coffee associations toward importing new varieties into Kona. Some argue that new varieties might alter the renowned Kona coffee brand by introducing different flavor profiles. 
  3. Genetic verification challenges: Ensuring the genetic purity of new varieties adds another layer of complexity. For farmers who would like confidence in the genetics of a variety prior to investing the years it takes to reach maturity, it’s good to verify the identity of their coffee plants, which can be a time-consuming and costly process.

Comparisons with Heritage Kona Typica

While Kona Typica is known for its smooth, nutty, and floral characteristics, Kona-grown SL34 brings a more vibrant and intricate palette. The bright berry and wine-like notes of SL34 provide a contrast to the more refined flavors offering a refreshing alternative for Kona coffee enthusiasts looking for new experiences. This contrast highlights the unique qualities of SL34 and its ability to offer something new and exciting to the Kona coffee landscape.

Man working with coffee crop

Kona Noir - 95PTS by Coffee Review, 2024

SL34 coffee is renowned for its rich and complex flavor profile. Growing this variety on Hawaii Island soil changes the profile, as do the cultivation methods employed by producers.

Depending on the roast level you get, you might taste molasses and ginger (darker roast) or red wine and currants (lighter roast).

Kona Noir was grown by an exceptional farmer in Kona, Franck Carisey, and processed via controlled fermentation with a wine yeast that is commonly used to ferment Riesling, Viognier, and Chardonnay. By using this wine yeast, the farmers are 'dialing in' the flavor profile of the coffee in the same way that vintners do with wine. 

Tasting Notes:
Richly aromatic, deep-toned. Wild honey, plumeria, white tea, peach, frankincense in aroma and cup. Bright, complex, juicy acidity; delicate, satiny-smooth mouthfeel. Very sweet, multi-layered, resonant finish.

The Bottom Line:
A uniquely composed Kona-grown SL-34 processed with Champagne yeasts for a complex, nuanced, flavor-saturated cup.

Brewing Recommendations for Kona Noir 

To fully appreciate the complex flavors of Kona-grown SL34, we recommend using pour-over or French press methods. These techniques highlight the coffee’s bright and full-bodied characteristics. For best results brew at 205°F for light roast and 195 °F for dark roast for 4 minutes, then decant and serve.

Roasting kona beans

By embracing a variety with deep roots in Africa and adapting it to the unique terroir of Hawaii, Hawaiian coffee farmers have created a coffee that is both rare and exceptional. Kona SL34 coffee is a testament to the innovation and dedication of Hawaiian coffee farmers. If you’re looking to experience something truly unique, Kona Noir, our SL34 variety, is a must-try.

HAWAIIAN COFFEE CLUB